Steens Mountain rises dramatically above the Alvord desert, a 12 mile long ancient lake bed.  The mountain itself, 20 miles long and over 9,000 feet high, is the most prominent feature in Southeast Oregon.  The winters cover it with snow, and wildflowers fill its valleys in the spring and summer.

Geology

Steens Mountain is the largest fault block mountain in North America.  Pressure from beneath the earth’s surface cracked the crust and thrust it upward between two planes, or faults.  The fault on the east side of the mountain is rising faster than the western fault, tilting the block and resulting in the steep slopes on the east side of the mountain, while the western slope is more gentle.  Repeated glaciations have carved dramatic U-shaped valleys in the mountain, including Kiger and Little Blitzen Gorges.

Vegetation

Distinct vegetation zones change as you move up the flanks of Steens Mountain.  The vegetation at the desert floor is dominated by Big Sagebrush and bunchgrass.  A little higher up the mountain one finds Western juniper and curlleaf mountain mahogany, found in rocky areas with shallow soils.  Aspens grow along streams and drainages of the Steens’ gorges, providing an important source of forage for deer and other wildlife.  Higher still is the subalpine zone, where smaller shrubs, grasses, and wildflowers such as mountain meadow knotweed and false hellebore grow.  At the top of the mountain, limited vegetation grows due to the harsh winds, late snowpack, and rocky soils.

Wildlife

 Steens Mountain provides important habitat for bighorn sheep, mule deer, rocky mountain elk, and pronghorn.  Jackrabbits are abundant in the area, as anyone driving to the mountain will find, but the area is also home to cottontail rabbits, snowshoe hares, and pygmy rabbits—petitioned for listing under the Endangered Species Act.  One might be lucky enough to see a coyote, kit fox, red fox, bobcat or cougar.  The diverse habitat on Steens harbors a wide range of birds, including sage grouse, golden eagles, black rosy-finches and a large variety of hummingbirds.  Wetlands on the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge attract tens of thousands of migratory birds throughout the year.